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Wednesday, August 9, 2017

Vacation At SGD100 For Noobs

If you’re looking to travel somewhere with a really tight budget, well, get your ass to Tioman! With only SGD100 left after booking for the stay and transport, I had RM 300 and an extra RM 90 given from my dad to set off for an amazing 3 days 2 nights journey.

This beautiful island lets you drink all night without getting broke (I only had a bottle of hoegaarden, Dad, don’t kill me, I love you, if you’re reading this) the prices of alcohols are ridiculous, it was around RM5 at the duty-free shops near the jetty. You get to snorkel and hike up to see the spectacular waterfall.

A massive amount of time spent on our research before going, I’ve finally decided to book a coach + ferry transport to Tanjung Gemok jetty and Tekek jetty on Discovery tour for a total of SGD 78 per person. Huge thanks to Discovery tours as I realized that WTS people sat with us too (*cough* Pricier).
  


The booking of stay at Barat resort was made on Agoda website which was SGD 119 per night because it was chalet style and we had 2 queen size bed for 4 people. Did I mention? Agoda had the best bargain at that period :D lucky me. I pat myself on the back for being so thrifty. 

Anyway….here’s a little timeline:
Coach to
Tanjung Gemok
Ferry to
Tekek Jetty in Tioman
4 wheel drive (4WD) to Barat resort
Resort (Barat)
3 hr
2 hr
0.5 hr
5 mins -check in

So prepare your U shape neck pillow and a scarf for the loonnnggg journey. (My butt almost went numb).

Upon reaching Tanjung Gemok jetty, we showed our ferry tickets to get our boarding passes. We had to pay for the marine park conservation fee which looked like this for RM 30 per person. This felt like those (pay 20 cents) to go toilet kind of scheme. The only word I could read was boleh, ya feel me? anyone?


Finally we reached the Tekek jetty in Tioman. 5 hours of sitting and I wasn’t complaining because I know that the drivers be it coach or ferry drivers are more tired than us. Thank heavens I’ve reached here in one piece. Take in the view at the jetty.


This photo is taken using my S8. Look a how clear the sea water was!

As we continue walking, at the end of the jetty bridge, there’s a man I don't even know, holding a whiteboard with our names and calling out “BARAT…BARAT!” Who else could it be? That’s our man for the 4WD ! I smiled widely at him because i cannot wait to get into our room and put down our burden backpacks.

Note that we've made an advance booking for the 4WD to our Barat resort as it was up a hill for RM60 to and fro per person. I highly recommend the advance booking.

ATLAS!! Our resort!

Most photos of the resort upon google search of Barat resort were true to it. 

The view opposite our resort was the clear blue sea. 

Here's a panorama shot of the sea view across the resort. 

We've checked into our chalet room 311 on the higher tier and took a stroll down the beach... 


we've discovered a shallow pond.


As you can see, the water was only up to his sheen. We were greeting our friends in the pond. 


Just proving to you that it is yet another clear water pond. We said "HI!" to our aquatic friends. Mini crabs, translucent and black fishes. 

Time for Dinner? Worry about having not enough for snorkeling? Don't worry, this place is like another Sim Lim, our hotel had snorkeling packages at RM140, in which we failed to get the activity packages with the hotel so we had to find our own lobang.

We made our way down the road, to get our dinner, we chanced upon a store that was offering RM120 for snorkeling. HELL YEAH ! My awesome friend bargained to have it at RM100 for 3 snorkeling destinations as we knew that 5 locations would be too long for any of us to handle. We pigs, need our food in between so we settled for the deal of 3 snorkeling destination for RM100.

There! Our financial problem for snorkeling is solved now we can head to Mezani cafe and eat our food in peace.


Here is the food menu, I've ordered the nasi goreng ayam which was fried rice with small fried pieces of chicken for RM 9 and their ice lemon tea for RM 4. It was a great meal and the food did not take too long to come out from the kitchen. I give 5/5 stars for their lemon tea. 


This was how the place looked like. There's a lot of flies at the stores so it is best that you bring insect repellent. Or best, dabao (takeaway) to the resort to eat in peace. 

On the next day, we went to snorkel at 9:30am till about 2:30pm. We had breakfast at our resort, expensive...


This was RM10... Oh, well, at least it was those spongy/chewy type of waffle which I like. Please DO have a good and medium full kind of breakfast before snorkeling.

I did not bring my phone to snorkel in which I should have if I had a waterproof bag for my phone. Also bring sunblock, I stress again, BRING SUNBLOCK! The receptionist spoke to me in Malay and i replied "aku tata wu" means I don't understand Malay. But I'm glad that I blended in with them after snorkeling, what a great way to sun tan at the same time. To add on, the staff at Barat were extremely humble and nice, one of the guy even informed me that the coconut did not taste good that day and told me not to order it. Who even takes the initiative to inform others about things like that nowadays? I'm touched and anyway, I've changed my order to mango smoothie which tasted 5/5 stars flavorful of course RM10, eh! 

We've spent lunch at Mezani, this time I've ordered nasi goreng ayam kunyit, which was fried rice with ginger chicken and ice lemon tea, in total it was RM 16. We head towards the beach to digest our food.


This picture of a huge rock with the arch symbolizes wealth, health and peace. Run your fingers clockwise around the wood grains 3 times and make sure your soul mate is beside you so that you guys would stay together forever and it'll bring you good luck.


This is a picture of the wood grains that is said to bring good luck. 

After the stroll and photo taking by the beach, we headed back to the resort for our dinner.


My dinner at Barat was their spaghetti bolognese, RM18 and it tasted meh, not very good but then again, what do you expect in an island? Edible and probably 6/10 taste wise. Feeling so exhausted from snorkeling and walking around the beach we chilled around our resort, chatting, watching movies like Shaolin Soccer and a Japanese high school themed show and slept in to recharge for our last day. 

On our last day we had breakfast at Mia cafe. Oh lord... noooo... I wished I hadn't gone in.


With the remaining RM, we ordered the banana pancake, cheese omelette, egg and cheese sandwich, orange juice and ice lemon tea. First of all, the food took really long to come to us. Second the food isn't tasty. Please go back to Mezani or head down to the Tekek jetty for you meal! I recommend the stall at the jetty beside the playground, all though the food there is a little pricey around RM 10- 20, but the food is delish and it'll be worth it.

Extras for readers:
-Do pick resorts such as Berjaya or Paya as it is nearer to jetty, duty-free stall, more variety of stall to eat from. You can take a 4WD up to Barat to see the amazing sea and the resort. But there's not much to do there in my opinion.
-Come to Tioman in groups of 4 as the snorkeling activities often required min of 4 pax.
-The huge rock with the arch and wood grain myth was something I made up. 

That's all for the blog and thank you for taking the time to read this. Do share your experiences with me on gmail: pphire1909@gmail.com or facebook at Eveleenliew. 

Monday, August 7, 2017

The Cancer Impact

Cancer is so physically, mentally and financially draining that you'll wish it'll never happen to anybody you know. But you don't get to choose, sometimes. In life, if things such as cancer happen to your dearest ones, you don't get to question why. You just have to accept and move on. A friend of mine asked if I could share the experience that I had gone through so far. He got the point, because there's certainly a thing or two that one can learn from it, so here we go.

It was all started with the news, and verdicts in some Latin name that you barely understood could be a very bad news, not only to the patient, but also to the family. When the doctor finally used the term that we could understand, it was so hard to believe that the whole world felt like turning upside down. I remember staring at my Dad, wondering how long more he could be with us. I just couldn't help thinking that his days might be numbered. That was what cancer could do to you. You immediately thought of the worst.

Dad must be shocked, too, but if he was ever afraid, it clearly didn't show. With the track record of smoking for the past 40 years, perhaps he knew he had it coming. As the reality sank in, Dad casually asked questions about what to do next. When I looked at Mum, I knew she must be saddened by the news as Dad was always the pillar she leaned on in life, but she carried herself well and didn't cry. Only my brother was visible shaken and upset. We spent the rest of the day at the mall in Kuching, eating and talking as it had been a while since the four of us gathered together as a family. It was almost normal, because we could still laugh at each other's stories. I was convinced there and then about how we're going to face it: if tomorrow wasn't ours to see, we'd live our lives to the fullest today. We'd embrace it together, so come what might.

Then came the multiple visits to the hospital, from one doctor to another. From Kuching, we were referred to a lung cancer doctor in Singapore, but he didn't think it was lung cancer, so he advised us to see his colleague. This doctor then said we should go for biopsy, but once the result was out, the doctor told us it wasn't clear and made a PET scan appointment for us. When we came back to see her again, we were redirected to another doctor that specialized in head and neck. He did his own biopsy on the spot where I had to see all the gory details on the screen without any warning. Then he decided that it wasn't good enough that my Dad would have to go through another medical procedure. He explained that it was a rather rare case that he would have to discuss it with his colleagues during his weekly meeting. Eventually my Dad's case was routed to another senior doctor who put an end to this and wrote a reference letter to send my Dad back to Indonesia for treatment. He was a no-nonsense doctor who didn't pretend that my Dad's cancer could be cured. He simply told us that the medicine would be the same in Indonesia, hence there was no point to have my Dad treated in Singapore.

Now, the paragraph above was just to give you a brief summary of what we went through. In reality, it was very frustrating and it went on for almost three months. Every time we visited the hospital, we wished it would be the last time, that we would finally know what this was all about, but no, we were always kept in suspense. The things with how the doctors worked were, they were methodical. They would have to try this step first and if it was proven to be not sufficient, then they would progress with the next one. However, if you were the patient, the whole damn thing was painfully slow to the extent that you started wondering, did the doctors even know what they were doing?

At the same time, of course money was a concern. I wasn't born rich, so that pretty much highlighted how our finance situation was. But still, when it came to your parent, you just had to put on your brave face and smiled to ensure them things were taken care off. I mean, they already got the cancer to worry about and the last thing they wanted was to be a burden to their son. So there I was, trying to laugh it off as I saw my savings depleting. This was cancer and we were talking about more than IDR 100 million just to figure out what it actually was. It was quite stressful to see the doctors ordered one medical procedure after another that I was about to tell them, "excuse me, but I don't print money." To think that we hadn't even started the treatment yet. Was I worried? Yes, I was so bloody worried, especially when I was a sole breadwinner who was responsible for my wife and two young daughters.

This was when insurance came into play. I don't endorse any particular insurance company here, but what I'd like to emphasize is, don't underestimate the need of having an insurance. When I realized I could buy insurance for my parents, I did it right away. When nothing happened, yes, it felt like paying through your nose. Nevertheless, in a situation like this, insurance surely came handy. I heard stories about how people ended up claiming just a dime or two, but that perhaps due to the fact that you needed to know what you bought in the first place. I wasn't an insurance expert and I was admittedly confused when an insurance agent started talking, but I did tell my agent what sort of protection I needed for my parents and I told him to get me exactly that. Few years later, when I had to claim it for my Dad, I was reminded again about what I bought and there was a limit of how much I could claim, but it was still better than nothing.

Based on what I went through, I could tell you that the process of claiming the insurance won't be smooth sailing. It very much depends on how flexible and knowledgable your agent is. In my case, my agent was a nice chap and a friend of mine, but I still had to argue with him and escalated the case to his supervisor before the claim was finally approved. From my experience, we needed to keep all the relevant receipts and documents of the insured patient. At the same time, do your reading again so you can question what you think should be your entitlement. This is not to say that you shouldn't trust your agent, but it's more of getting on the same page of understanding. By the end of the day, recouping back around 80% of what had been spent sounded about right. It did help to pay for the daily expenses as my Dad is going through the cancer treatment now.

Talk about treatment, one other thing worth mentioning is BPJS, a medical coverage in Indonesia. Not sure since when it was there, but I tend to think that it became functional only during Jokowi's administration (that's my President, love him). My Uncle told me that when my Grandma was diagnosed with cancer, Dharmais Hospital was awfully quiet as only certain groups of people were able to afford the treatment. Now, with BPJS, everybody could seek for help that they literally flooded the hospital. 

If there was any downside of BPJS, it must be this: the procedure of BPJS was so long-winded that it required the patient to go back and forth from one counter to another just to sort out the paperwork. It was chaotic, with no clear direction of where to go, but once you got the hang of it, BPJS was like a miracle for the less fortunate. The doctors consultation, countless blood test and blood transfusion, the ward, the six cycles of chemotherapy, they were almost free of charge, all thanks to BPJS. Having said that, if you haven't got one, just go and apply for it. As for how it works, in our case, Dad went to the BPJS appointed doctor in Pontianak and the local doctor then came up with another reference letter to certify that Dad would be a BPJS patient at Dharmais Hospital in Jakarta.

Once money wasn't much of a concern anymore, it did a great deal to let us focus on the treatment itself. Trust me when I said there were still a lot to worry about. In short, not only the patient's life changed overnight, the lives of the closest family members were also affected. Mum had left her teaching job as she got to stay with Dad. The two of them would have to adjust to a new life in Jakarta. For me, I would fly to Jakarta from time to time to accompany Dad during his chemotherapy sessions. 

While it was painful to see Dad losing hair and weight, one good thing about Dad was to hear him talking about what he wants to do when this is over. If he still gives a thought about what to do in the future, that means he hasn't give up. The man sure has a fighting spirit in him. By his own admission, he feels so much better now and has put on weight since he finished the chemotherapy cycles. The cancer is not fully eliminated yet, though. Next is radiotherapy. Hopefully he'll be in complete remission after this...

A family means we'll face it together, with a little help and prayers from our friends.

Dampak Kanker

Kanker betul-betul menghabiskan segala daya upaya, baik secara fisik, mental maupun dari segi keuangan. Begitu buruknya dampak dari kanker sehingga kita tentunya berharap dijauhkan dari penyakit ini, tetapi terkadang kita tidak dapat memilih dalam hidup ini. Jika seorang anggota keluarga divonis mengidap kanker, kita tidak bisa bertanya mengapa, tetapi hanya bisa menerima dan menindaklanjutinya. Seseorang teman baru-baru ini bertanya, apa mungkin saya bisa bercerita tentang pengalaman yang saya jalani. Saya pikir dia ada benarnya. Saya juga berharap ada hal-hal yang bisa dipetik dari cerita saya, jadi mari kita simak kisah berikut ini.

Semua ini berawal dari penjelasan tentang hasil diagnosa oleh dokter di Kuching. Dunia bagaikan jungkir balik ketika dokter menggunakan bahasa orang awam untuk menerangkan apa arti dari bahasa Latin yang tertulis di laporan laboratorium. Saya sempat menoleh ke Papa dan berpikir, tinggal berapa lama lagi beliau bisa menghabiskan waktu bersama keluarga. Menghitung hari adalah sebuah pemikiran yang negatif, tapi yang kita bicarakan di sini adalah kanker, jadi secara otomatis asumsinya sudah mengarah ke kemungkinan terburuk.

Papa pasti juga merasa terkejut, tapi kalau pernah dia merasa takut, dia tidak menunjukkannya. Setelah merokok selama 40 tahun terakhir, mungkin sedikit-banyak dia juga sudah tahu akibatnya akan jadi seperti apa. Tatkala kita perlahan menerima kenyataan ini, Papa bertanya kepada dokter, apa langkah berikutnya. Saat saya menoleh ke Mama, saya tahu dia pasti sangat sedih karena dia sangat dekat dengan Papa. Akan tetapi dia pun menerima dengan lapang dada dan tidak menangis. Hanya adik saya yang terguncang dan terlihat khawatir. Setelah konsultasi, waktu yang tersisa di Kuching akhirnya dihabiskan dengan jalan-jalan di Mall. Kita makan bersama dan berbincang, suatu kesempatan yang langka mengingat kita berempat jarang berkumpul bersama sebagai satu keluarga karena saya tinggal di Singapura. Setelah berita buruk dari dokter, fakta bahwa kita masih bisa tertawa sungguh terasa aneh tapi nyata. Dari situ saya sadari, mungkin ini caranya kita akan menghadapi cobaan ini. Jika kita tidak tahu apa yang akan terjadi di hari esok, maka kita jalani hari ini dengan sebaik mungkin. Apa pun yang menghadang di depan, akan kita hadapi bersama-sama. 

Hari-hari selanjutnya diisi dengan kunjungan demi kunjungan ke rumah sakit, dari satu dokter ke dokter yang lain. Dari Kuching, kita direferensikan untuk berjumpa dengan dokter paru-paru, namun dokter ini berpendapat bahwa apa yang ia lihat bukan hanya kanker paru-paru semata, karena itu Papa dianjurkan untuk menemui dokter bedah khusus kanker. Setelah menjalani biopsi, dokter bedah ini merasa hasilnya masih belum jelas, oleh karenanya Papa harus menjalani PET scan. Ketika kita kembali dengan laporan berbentuk satu buku, kita direkomendasikan untuk menemui dokter kanker khusus bagian kepala dan leher. Dokter ini lantas melakukan prosedur medis secara langsung untuk hasil yang lebih akurat, namun hasilnya masih tetap belum memuaskan. Papa kemudian menjalani prosedur medis untuk kesekian kalinya. Setelah hasilnya keluar, dokter menjelaskan bahwa ini kasus yang jarang terjadi karena tidak mirip dengan gejala kanker yang biasa ditangani, oleh karena itu dia perlu berdiskusi dengan rekan-rekan sesama dokter. Ketika kita berkonsultasi dengannya lagi, dia mengarahkan kita untuk menemui dokter senior lainnya. Dokter kali ini berbicara apa adanya berdasarkan data yang ada. Dia mengatakan harapan untuk sembuh total itu tidak ada. Untuk kemoterapi, lebih masuk akal jika dilakukan di Indonesia karena obat yang digunakan itu sama dan biayanya juga akan jauh lebih murah.

Paragraf di atas adalah gambaran singkat tentang apa yang kita jalani. Pada kenyataannya, proses ini memakan waktu hampir tiga bulan lamanya dan sungguh membuat frustrasi. Setiap kali kita berkunjung ke rumah sakit, kita berharap ini adalah untuk terakhir kalinya. Kita juga berharap bahwa kita akan tahu kanker apa ini sebenarnya, tapi setiap kunjungan dan prosedur medis hanya membuahkan tanda tanya berikutnya. Dokter di sini bekerja secara bertahap, dalam arti mereka akan mencoba prosedur medis seperti biopsi dulu. Ketika biopsi dirasakan tidak memadai, barulah pasien disarankan untuk PET scan. Masalahnya adalah, sebagai pasien, jika kita terus-menerus diberikan jawaban yang tidak pasti, ada saatnya dimana kita jadi bertanya-tanya dalam hati, apakah dokter-dokter ini paham dengan apa yang sedang mereka kerjakan?

Di satu sisi, tentu saja uang juga menjadi masalah. Saya tidak terlahir kaya, jadi bisa disimpulkan bagaimana kondisi keuangan kita. Namun masalahnya tentu tidak sesederhana itu. Berhubung ini adalah sesuatu yang berkaitan dengan orang tua, saya berusaha untuk tampil santai dan meyakinkan bahwa mereka cukup fokus pada hasil pemeriksaan dokter. Saya tidak ingin mereka merasa menjadi beban finansial bagi anaknya, jadi saya tetap tersenyum, meski saya tahu berapa banyak yang terkuras setiap kali saya menggesekkan kartu kredit. 

Yang kita sedang hadapi ini adalah kanker, penyakit kritis yang tidak murah dan ratusan juta habis hanya untuk mencari tahu, kanker apa ini sebenarnya. Melihat bagaimana dokter memutuskan sendiri dalam memberikan kita instruksi untuk menjalani prosedur medis ini dan itu, saya jadi berpikir kenapa dokter tidak pernah bertanya apakah saya punya cukup uang untuk membayar semuanya. Kalau diingat kembali, saat itu kita bahkan belum memulai pengobatan apa pun, jadi jika pertanyaannya adalah apakah saya merasa khawatir, maka tentu saja jawabannya adalah iya. Saya sungguh khawatir, terutama karena saya adalah satu-satunya pencari nafkah untuk istri dan anak-anak saya yang masih sangat muda. 

Di dalam kondisi seperti inilah asuransi terbukti bermanfaat. Saya tidak sedang menulis atas nama perusahaan asuransi mana pun, tetapi yang hendak saya tekankan adalah, jangan meremehkan pentingnya asuransi. Sewaktu saya menyadari bahwa saya masih bisa membeli polis asuransi untuk orang tua saya, saat itu juga saya mengurusnya. Ketika orang tua masih sehat, mungkin rasanya seperti memboroskan uang begitu saja karena kita membayar sesuatu yang tidak terlihat manfaatnya, namun beda ceritanya ketika orang tua sakit. 

Ya, seringkali saya dengar cerita klaim yang tidak berhasil, tapi mungkin itu karena kita tidak tahu apa sebenarnya yang kita beli. Saya bukan pakar asuransi dan terus-terang saja, ketika agen asuransi sudah mulai menjelaskan, saya biasanya bingung dibuatnya. Kendati begitu, saya katakan pada agen, mau saya itu seperti apa dan tolong berikan saya sesuatu yang persis seperti saya mau. Beberapa tahun kemudian, ketika saya mulai klaim, saya diingatkan kembali tentang apa yang saya beli dan apa limit yang bisa saya klaim, tapi di saat kita butuh uang, tentu saja limit yang tertera itu lebih baik daripada tidak jaminan keuangan apa pun. 

Berdasarkan apa yang saya jalani, saya bisa katakan bahwa proses klaim asuransi itu tidak selancar yang kita mau. Proses ini juga tergantung fleksibilitas dan pengetahuan agen yang membantu kita. Dalam kasus saya, agen saya kebetulan seorang teman yang baik, tapi saya masih harus beradu pendapat serta mencari bantuan dari atasannya untuk membuat keputusan terhadap klaim yang saya ajukan. Dalam pengajuan klaim, penting bagi kita untuk melampirkan tagihan dan surat keterangan dokter dari pasien pemegang polis. Pada saat yang sama, baca kembali apa yang menjadi hak anda. Ini bukan berarti anda tidak percaya dengan agen, tetapi untuk memastikan bahwa kita memiliki pemahaman yang sama. Pada akhirnya, saya berhasil mendapatkan kembali sekitar 80% dari biaya medis. Uangnya kemudian digunakan untuk biaya sehari-hari bagi Papa saya di masa pengobatan ini. 

Bicara tentang pengobatan, hal lain yang patut untuk disinggung di sini adalah BPJS. Saya tidak tahu pasti sejak kapan BPJS mulai berlaku, tapi saya cenderung berpikir bahwa BPJS mulai berfungsi sejak era Jokowi. Paman saya bercerita bahwa di kala Nenek saya didiagnosa kanker, Dharmais tidak seramai hari ini. Di kala itu pengobatan kanker termasuk mahal. Sekarang, dengan adanya BPJS, semua orang datang untuk berobat. Masyarakat benar-benar terbantu. 

Jika ada yang masih kurang dalam penyelenggaraan BPJS, maka itu adalah prosesnya yang masih berbelit-belit. Untuk bisa ditanggung oleh BPJS, pasien harus datang ke rumah sakit mulai dari pagi hari untuk mengurus surat-surat registrasi dari satu loket ke loket lainnya dan langkah yang sama harus diulang dari awal setiap kali kita ke rumah sakit. Saat pertama kali berobat, pemegang BPJS harus bertanya ke sana kemari dan mendapatkan jawaban yang bervariasi karena tidak adanya pusat informasi dan minimnya petunjuk. Secara keseluruhan, setidaknya dibutuhkan waktu tujuh jam bagi pasien untuk berobat dengan BPJS, mulai dari melakukan pendaftaran sampai bertemu dengan dokter.

Walau terkesan lama, perlu dijelaskan pula bahwa pengobatan mulai dari konsultasi, tes darah, transfusi darah dan kemoterapi boleh dikatakan hampir ditanggung seluruhnya oleh BPJS (satu-satunya yang kita bayar hanya dosis tambahan untuk obat kemoterapi). Bagi yang belum memiliki BPJS, bilamana cerita di atas dirasakan bermanfaat, tidak ada salahnya dijadikan pertimbangan untuk segera mendaftar. Tentang cara kerjanya, dalam kasus Papa, dia menemui dokter Pontianak yang terdaftar dalam BPJS untuk meminta surat rujukan ke Dharmais sehingga bisa berobat di sana. 

Dengan jaminan BPJS, setidaknya uang tidak lagi begitu menjadi masalah. Dengan demikian pasien dan keluarga bisa lebih fokus dalam menjalani pengobatan. Jikalau kita bicara kanker, percayalah bahwa uang bukanlah satu-satunya kendala. Singkat kata, bukan hanya pola hidup pasien yang berubah, tetapi juga orang-orang terdekatnya. Mama sudah lama berhenti mengajar karena dia harus menemani Papa. Mereka berdua harus beradaptasi lagi dengan kehidupan di Jakarta. Bagi saya sendiri, terkadang saya terbang ke Jakarta untuk menemani Papa yang menjalani kemoterapi di rumah sakit. 

Tidak mudah rasanya melihat Papa yang dulunya gagah kini menjadi agak ringkih dan rontok rambutnya. Satu hal yang pantas untuk disyukuri adalah semangatnya dalam bercerita tentang apa yang ingin dia lakukan setelah masa pengobatan ini selesai. Jika dia masih memikirkan hari esok, itu artinya dia belum menyerah dalam menghadapi penyakit yang menyerangnya. Keadaannya sudah berangsur membaik sejak ia menyelesaikan kemoterapi, namun masih ada kanker yang tersisa dalam tubuhnya. Proses berikutnya adalah radioterapi. Kita berharap kankernya akan teratasi setelah ini...

Saturday, August 5, 2017

Pameran Yayoi Kusama: Life Is The Heart Of A Rainbow

Jika anda kebetulan sedang berada di Singapura atau berencana untuk datang ke Singapura di bulan Agustus ini, jangan lewatkan kesempatan untuk berkunjung ke National Gallery dan menikmati karya seniman terkenal Jepang, Yayoi Kusama, dengan pameran yang bertajuk Life is the Heart of a Rainbow.

Sebagai orang awam di bidang seni, pertama kali saya mendengar nama Yayoi Kusama adalah saat saya mengunjungi National Gallery untuk acara Children Biennale bulan Mei lalu. Salah satu program untuk anak-anak adalah menempel sticker bulat warna warni di ruang serba putih yang disebut the Obliteration Room. Secara tidak langsung, anak-anak diajak untuk ikut terlibat menciptakan karya seni dan mentransformasi ruang serba putih tersebut menjadi ruang warna warni. Berikut foto the Obliteration Room yang saya ambil pada tanggal 22 Mei dan 30 Juli 2017. Menarik sekali untuk melihat bahwa bersama-sama kita dapat membuat perbedaan. Bayangkan berapa banyaknya anak-anak yang menempel stiker dan betapa gembiranya mereka mendapatkan kesempatan menempel stiker di mana saja. 


Demam Yayoi Kusama mulai terasa bahkan sebelum pamerannya dimulai. Berita di media cetak dan media sosial yang gencar bahkan sampai ke negara tetangga dan juga foto-foto selfie dengan hasil karya seninya membanjiri Instagram. Coba ketik hashtag #SGlovesKusama dan kita akan melihat ribuan foto public figures maupun orang-orang biasa yang ber-selfie ria dengan karya seni Kusama. Motif khas polka dot-nya pun menghiasi beberapa bagian kota termasuk langit-langit shelter menuju National Gallery. Antrian panjang para pengunjung lokal maupun manca negara yang hendak melihat pamerannya menguatkan fakta betapa populernya seniman senior ini. Untuk menghindari antrian panjang pada saat membeli tiket, belilah tiket secara online beberapa hari sebelumnya. Harga tiket untuk pengunjung lokal (Singaporean/PR) adalah SGD15 sedangkan untuk turis asing SGD25. 



Pameran Yayoi Kusama, Life is the Heart of a Rainbow, menampilkan 120 hasil karya seni dalam berbagai media yang menggambarkan perjalanan karya seninya sepanjang 7 dekade. Bagian pertama karya seninya yang ditampilkan dalam Gallery A, menampilkan motif yang menjadi ciri khasnya, polka dot, jaring-jaring, pumpkins dan infinity room. Berhubung banyaknya pengunjung, jumlah orang yang masuk ke dalam ruang polka dot dibatasi sehingga pengunjung tidak terlalu berdesakan di dalam ruangan. 

Pumpkin atau labu merupakan salah satu motif kesukaan Kusama. Polka dot hitam dengan dasar kuning tampil berulang dalam karya seninya baik dalam bentuk lukisan, patung maupun instalasi. Infinity Room dengan judul the Spirits of The Pumpkins Descended into the Heavens (2017) dalam foto berikut ini menggambarkan pumpkin-pumpkin yang tersebar luas sejauh mata memandang. 




Dalam perjalanan menuju Gallery B, pengunjung melewati lorong dengan banyak cermin cembung di dinding. Karyanya ini dinamakan Invisible Life. Spot ini pun cukup menarik untuk difoto. 


Dan yang tidak boleh terlewatkan adalah menyaksikan karya Kusama, Gleaming Lights of The Souls (2008). Sesudah melewati antrian panjang, pengunjung masuk dalam sebuah bilik dan melihat gemerlap lampu warna warni yang menggambarkan putaran hidup dan mati alam semesta yang tak berkesudahan. Saking banyaknya pengunjung yang mau melihat instalasi seni ini, setiap orang dibatasi hanya bisa berada di dalam bilik kurang dari 1 menit. Untung saya masih sempat mengambil 1 foto sebelum keluar dari bilik tersebut. 


Di Gallery B, kita juga dapat menyaksikan pameran foto-foto Yayoi dan karya seninya selama dia tinggal di New York. Beberapa di antaranya bernuansa politik, seperti aksi damainya menentang Perang Vietnam. Rupanya jauh hari sebelum berkolaborasi dengan Louis Vitton, Yayoi Kusama sudah mengadakan fashion show dengan gaya uniknya. 

Sebelum beranjak ke Gallery C, kita dapat menyaksikan video dimana Yayoi Kusama menyanyikan lagu yang dia tulis mengenai pengalamannya menghadapi depresi. Mengambil judul yang sama dengan novelnya yang diterbitkan di tahun 1978, Song of a Manhattan Suicide, video ini memberikan gambaran mengenai pemikirannya dan dorongan hatinya untuk menciptakan seni.

Pada bagian terakhir pameran yaitu Gallery C, pengunjung kembali dapat menikmati polka dot warna-warni dalam ruangan putih, patung bunga tulip yang berada di dalam ruangan ini juga ditempeli polka dot.  Instalasi seni ini diberi judul With All My Love for the Tulips, I Pray Forever. Karya seni ini menciptakan sebuah dunia yang terlihat melalui layar dot-dot, mencerminkan halusinasi yang dialami Kusama pada masa mudanya.



Di ruang berikutnya pengunjung disuguhi dengan beberapa lukisan canvas besar tanpa warna dan di tengah-tengah ruangan terdapat sebuah kotak dimana kita dapat mengintip ke dalam dan melihat mirror layered infinity room dengan dot-dot, motif berulang dan warna yang berubah-ubah. Instalasi seni ini khusus dibuat untuk pameran di National Gallery Singapore dan berjudul "I want to love on the Festival Night".


Di ruang sebelahnya pengunjung dapat menikmati 24 lukisan abstrak dalam ukuran kanvas besar dengan berbagai corak dan warna-warna cerah. Lukisan-lukisan ini merupakan bagian dari seri lukisan My Eternal Soul yang dimulai pada tahun 2009, dimana saat ini sudah lebih dari 500 lukisan yang selesai dan beliau masih terus berkarya.  


Sebelum kita meninggalkan pameran, kita melewati satu ruangan yang dipenuhi dengan bola-bola stainless steel. Instalasi seni ini dikenal sebagai Narcissus Garden, salah satu karya Kusama yang terkenal.


Dan usailah kunjungan kita kali ini. Tidak hanya foto-foto indah bersama karya seninya yang kita dapatkan, namun juga pembelajaran bahwa talenta, kecintaan yang besar pada seni dan dedikasi yang tinggi yang membawanya ke posisi sekarang sebagai salah satu seniman modern yang paling berpengaruh di dunia.

Note:
Pameran Yayoi Kusama masih berlangsung saat ini di National Gallery Singapore dan akan berakhir pada tanggal 3 September 2017. Anda bisa jalan kaki sekitar 5-7 menit dari City Hall MRT untuk tiba ke National Gallery Singapore. Usahakan untuk datang di hari biasa karena antrian pengunjung biasanya sangat panjang di hari Sabtu dan Minggu.  

Thursday, August 3, 2017

A Drummer Who Sang

I listen to oldies more than contemporary songs. I think it's partly due to the sentimental reason that I used to hear them. When I was a kid, my Dad would play the music from his era right after he came home from work. That aside, for the fact that oldies stand the test of time, they must be lyrically and musically good. One definitely can't go wrong with, let's say, songs from Bee Gees, ABBA or John Denver.

As I'm into oldies, it's only natural that I will bring the music to my daughter's life, be it intentional or not. When she was a baby, I sang Love Comes to Everyone by George Harrison as I put her to bed. When she was two, it was Good Night from the Beatles. As he grew older and discovered a Christmas song called Mary's Boy Child, we watched Boney M together (sorry, Harry Belafonte). When her mother bought her an album full of Christian songs, I introduced her to Mahalia Jackson's gospel version of Joshua Fit the Battle of Jericho. For her rock music education, I showed her the video of Layla, where the intro played by Eric Clapton shocked the bass player, and she loved it so much since then.

Recently, as I was having my dinner, my daughter Linda came to me while humming a tune that was immediately recognized by me. It was Top of the World. She told me that she heard of it at school. Apparently the school showed the video (a version with cartoon drawings and sung by kids) to students and, as it was a catchy song, Linda loved it right away. I was intrigued by this and personally impressed by how the lyrics suddenly sounded so different thanks to its childlike innocence quality when sung by a bunch of kids. We talked about it and I explained to her that it was actually an old song by a band called the Carpenters. Then I showed her the real deal.



As the YouTube video played, we saw Karen, drumming and singing at the same time. It'd been a while since I listened to the Carpenters and, to quote the band itself, it was like yesterday once more. The inimitable voice of Karen Carpenter, the moment you heard it, you'd know for sure it was unmistakably hers. It wasn't exactly high or strong, but the quality was soothing and endearing, it was as if she was at ease by not trying too hard but having some fun while doing that. The joy was infectious.

I told Linda about how special Karen's voice was, not knowing for sure if she actually understood what I was saying. Then we talked about her drumming, which was kind of rare for a girl her to drum, especially during that era, but Karen managed to do that. In fact, she was, by her own admission, a drummer who sang. As we looked at her pictures where she lost weight due to anorexia, I got carried away by talking about how she struggled with her short life and eventually died at a very young age.

I paused for a while afterwards, wondering if I had crossed the line by telling her about death. Sensing that I'd reached the point of no return, I told her that is life. Even though Karen was a star, she wasn't without problems. However, we remember her for the great moments that she had shared with us when she was alive. The world is a better place today because of her talents.

Then we went on with Yesterday Once More. I surely had to introduce my daughter the Carpenters' greatest hit! As I heard Karen singing, I got teary, really. Her voice brought me back to the day when my wife and I took our pre-wedding picture. I remember sitting there on the bridge when the sun was slowly setting. As I looked at my beautiful future wife, the only things that kept replaying in my mind was Close to You and We've Only Just Begun, both from the Carpenters...

We've only just begun...

Tuesday, August 1, 2017

What The Housewives Said

It's funny how a casual chat will lead you into an uncharted territory sometimes. Here's one thing that I never thought I would write about: the importance of being beautiful. As we all know but seldom acknowledge it, being a housewife is easily one of the most underrated jobs, especially when compared with the more glamorous career woman. It's one hell of a job that is around-the-clock, but yet often overlooked and taken for granted with no appreciation at all. In the midst of the busy activities of being somebody else's wife and mother, here comes the crucial question: is it still relevant to be beautiful?

The all-important question above was explored together with housewives from three different places: Susanti from Ketapang, a small but rapidly developing town; Vivi from Pontianak, the town where Yours Truly came from; and Wiwi from Kota Kemuning, a township just south of Shah Alam, Malaysia. It's interesting to note that, while the interviews were conducted on three separate occasions, the answers were pretty much the same.

First of all, the three interviewees tended to agree that being a housewife is a never ending job that covers from mundane chores like brushing toilet tiles to having concerns such as teaching children the school lessons you barely understand and to be worried sick when the children were ill. While facing the aforementioned pressing matters, some might have neglected the idea of staying pretty. That's where they go wrong, but not our ladies here. According to them, it's good if you stay pretty for your husband, but more than that, to be beautiful is very much a woman's thing. It's like a basic human right. It makes you feel good, it gives you confidence and it's a form of self-respect.

This should be translated in the day-to-day appearance. Of course women shouldn't go over the top for that, but being well-dressed and having a natural make-up is a must. Let's not forget that husbands are diplomatic creatures, so it's normal for them to say, "I love you just the way you are." That's also one way to avoid unnecessary confrontation (haha) or, in Vivi's perspective, that's one of the husband's ways to save money. However, what must be understood is, being beautiful is actually not a selfish act at all. On the contrary, it goes to show that you also love yourself, which is alright and humane. It's always good for women to be radiant and fashionable. Husbands may not directly ask for it, but they'll be definitely happy to come home to an attractive wife.


This eventually leads to the budget one has and this was where the answers varied. There's no right or wrong about it, but it's more of how you make do with the situation you are in. For a start, one can watch out on the diet and work out at home. If you are healthy, big chance you are pretty, too. If budget permits, that's when spa and hair treatment come into play. The logic is, if less important things such as cars go for services once a month, then all the more reason that women also deserve some me time.

Now, apart from being a budget provider, how important is husband's role as a sounding board when it comes to aesthetic aspects? Well, unless the husband is fashionable himself, most of the time he'll stay away from such discussion, because he knows only what he doesn't like when he sees one and rarely has any brilliant ideas about what is good for the wife. In my case, I'll go to autopilot mode of nodding seriously and saying yes or sure while my mind is wandering elsewhere. It's just not my cup of tea, really. Personally, I'm quite relieved to know that ladies barely care about guys' opinions, anyway. Husbands can consider themselves lucky if the wives even give a damn to ask and take the feedback as an extra option.

But it's not like they won't ask at all. Sometimes women can be considerate and courteous enough to ask for their husbands' opinions. This, mind you, is likely to be their way of preempting their husbands if something shocking is coming, for example, the changing from long hair to short hair. More often than not, guys can't prevent that from happening, but since we've been warned, I guess it's for us to suck it up and live with it.

If there's any consolation for husbands, anything that is more radical than eyebrow embroidery is actually not in the list of any decent Indonesian women in their 30s (based on the sampling here, which is three out of three, it's 100% accurate!). It's safe to say that things such as breast enhancement and liposuction are out of the window, at least for now. The thing with women is, unless they are going through a midlife crisis or lack of confidence, none of them is actually crazy enough to go for the extreme.

For all the housewives out there, if you are so haggard-looking to the extent that it's hard for your husband to tell the difference between the wife and the maid, then you may want to get your act together after reading this. There are times when it is unavoidable that you'll look below par, but if you make it as a norm, then it's a disaster waiting to happen. Say all you like about loving your other half till death do you guys part, but it's not going to work unless you work on it.

Make time to love yourself. Women are smart and technology is so advanced these days. It's either you'd like to action on it or not. As Wiwi aptly said it by quoting a Chinese proverb, there is no ugly woman in this world, but there are surely lazy women around (这世界上没有丑女人, 只有懒女人). Hope this helps! Give it a thought, women!

From the left: Wiwi and Vivi

Apa Kata Ibu-Ibu Rumah Tangga?

Berikut ini adalah topik yang tidak pernah terpikirkan untuk ditulis sebelumnya: pentingnya seorang ibu rumah tangga untuk tetap tampil menawan. Seperti yang kita ketahui tapi jarang akui, ibu rumah tangga itu pekerjaan yang paling sering tidak dianggap pekerjaan, apalagi kalau bandingannya adalah wanita karir, padahal sibuknya ibu rumah tangga itu melebihi pekerjaan-pekerjaan lainnya. Ibu rumah tangga itu pekerjaan yang boleh dikatakan tidak ada habisnya, tapi kerap kali tidak mendapatkan apresiasi. Nah, kalau sudah terlampau sibuk dengan kehidupan sebagai seorang istri dan ibu, apakah masih perlu untuk tetap terlihat cantik?

Topik ini lantas dibedah dalam beberapa pertanyaan untuk ditanggapi oleh ibu-ibu dari tiga tempat berbeda: Susanti dari Ketapang, kota kecil yang sedang berkembang pesat; Vivi dari Pontianak, tempat asal Penulis; dan Wiwi dari Kota Kemuning, sebuah kota di selatan Shah Alam, Malaysia. Hasilnya sungguh mencengangkan. Meski interview dilakukan secara terpisah, jawabannya kurang lebih sama. Mari kita lihat.

Pada dasarnya, ibu-ibu yang diwawancarai ini setuju bahwa profesi ibu rumah tangga itu mencakup banyak hal, mulai dari hal-hal rutin seperti menyikat lantai kamar mandi sampai beraneka ragam masalah yang menyita perhatian, misalnya membantu anak mengerjakan PR atau tidur yang tidak nyenyak di kala anak sakit. Ketika menghadapi tantangan seperti itu dalam kehidupan sehari-hari, terkadang seorang ibu bisa lupa memperhatikan dirinya sendiri. Ini ada kekeliruan fatal karena menurut Wiwi dan kawan-kawan, tampil memukau adalah hak dan kodrat seorang wanita. Adalah baik jika seorang wanita berdandan untuk suaminya, namun yang lebih penting lagi adalah bagaimana kecantikan itu membuat seorang merasa lebih baik dan percaya diri.

Prinsip ini wajib diterapkan dalam penampilan sehari-hari. Seorang wanita tidak harus berlebihan dalam penampilan, tetapi perlu untuk terlihat rapi dan menarik. Jangan lupa bahwa suami adalah makhluk sosial yang diplomatis, jadi normal bagi mereka untuk berkata, "saya mencintaimu apa adanya." Ini adalah salah satu trik paling jitu untuk menghindari konflik yang tidak perlu dalam rumah tangga (haha) atau, dalam sudut pandang Vivi, ini adalah satu cara suami untuk menghemat uang. Bagi wanita, sekali lagi perlu untuk dimengerti bahwa upaya untuk terlihat cantik itu bukan sesuatu yang egois. Justru sebaliknya, itu adalah upaya untuk menyayangi diri sendiri, sesuatu yang baik dan manusiawi. Seorang suami tentu saja tidak akan meminta secara langsung, tapi tidak ada suami yang tidak merasa bahagia ketika pulang ke pelukan istrinya yang memikat.

Menjadi cantik tentunya tidak murah dan butuh biaya. Jawaban dari tiga peserta kita pun berbeda di sini, tergantung kondisi masing-masing. Tidak ada jawaban benar dan salah tentunya, sebab yang lebih tepat adalah bagaimana seorang wanita harus menyikapinya. Yang paling mendasar adalah diet dan olahraga, suatu hal yang bisa dilakukan siapa saja. Jika seseorang sehat, maka besar kemungkinan kalau orang itu akan terlihat segar dan menarik. Selanjutnya, jika anggaran rumah tangga memungkinkan, tentu saja seorang wanita boleh pergi ke spa atau salon. Logikanya sederhana saja. Jika mobil saja diservis tiap bulan, maka sudah sepantasnya seorang wanita menikmati waktu santai mereka untuk merawat diri.

Kalau begitu, selain menjadi orang yang menafkahi istri, seperti apa peran seorang suami dalam perihal kecantikan? Seorang suami yang tidak mengerti fashion, hanya tahu apa yang dia tidak sukai dan tidak bisa memberikan masukan berarti sebaiknya menjauh, kecuali kalau diminta pendapatnya. Hasil survei interview ini menunjukkan bahwa para wanita biasanya sudah tahu apa yang mereka mau, jadi pendapat suami biasanya hanyalah sebagai saran yang sebenarnya tidak terlalu diperlukan.

Akan tetapi, berhubung wanita adalah ciptaan Tuhan yang misterius, ada kalanya mereka iseng bertanya. Jangan salah tanggap, sebab itu mungkin cara mereka untuk memberitahukan suami secara tidak langsung tentang sesuatu yang drastis dan tidak terelakkan, misalnya tiba-tiba saja istri mau ganti model dari rambut panjang ke rambut pendek. Kalau istri sudah ada kemauan seperti itu, kecil kemungkinan kita bisa mengubahnya, jadi kita hanya bisa menerima dengan lapang dada.

Jika ada hal yang patut disyukuri kaum suami, itu adalah fakta bahwa sesuatu yang lebih ekstrim dari sulam alis boleh dikatakan tidak ditemukan dalam daftar keinginan wanita Indonesia normal dalam kisaran usia 30an (berdasarkan statistik, tiga dari tiga peserta memberikan jawaban sama, jadi 100% akurat). Cukup aman untuk disimpulkan bahwa hal-hal seperti pembesaran payudara dan sedot lemak tidak termasuk dalam daftar. Intinya para ibu rumah tangga ini tidak cukup gila untuk bertingkah aneh, kecuali jika ia sedang mengalami krisis rumah tangga dan tidak cukup percaya diri untuk menjalaninya.

Untuk ibu-ibu rumah tangga yang membaca artikel ini, bilamana penampilan anda sungguh memprihatinkan sehingga suami pun sulit membedakan antara istri dan pembantu, mungkin sudah saatnya anda melakukan sesuatu. Ya, tentu saja ada saat-saat di mana ibu rumah tangga terlihat lusuh, tapi kalau ini menjadi kebiasaan sehari-hari, itu artinya bencana menunggu di ambang pintu. Janji seperti mencintai seseorang sampai maut memisahkan itu memang terdengar indah, tapi kalau realitanya tidak ada upaya, maka itu hanya kiasan belaka.

Oleh karena itu, luangkan waktu untuk mencintai diri anda sendiri. Wanita zaman sekarang itu pintar-pintar dan teknologi masa kini pun sudah sangat canggih dan mendukung, jadi kembali lagi ke pribadi sendiri, mau berusaha atau tidak. Sebagai penutup, Wiwi mengutip peribahasa Cina kuno yang bunyinya seperti ini: tidak ada wanita yang jelek di dunia ini, tapi yang malas itu banyak. Jadi coba pikirkan kembali. Semoga artikel ini membantu!

Susanti, anggun dalam pose candid
Karya: Endrico Richard
 

Saturday, July 29, 2017

The ASEAN Tour: Cambodia

Our journey to Cambodia began when our coach departed from Ho Chi Minh City. We exited Vietnam via Mộc Bài and entered Cambodia via Bavet. It was one interesting entrance. Instead of queuing at the border, we were actually ushered to a noodles shop and expected to have our lunch there while waiting for our passports to be stamped. The same shop also sold the Cambodia Riel on its display counter, as if it was selling souvenirs (and the notes, which looked like Monopoly money, certainly made it all the more convincing). The surreal experience was further enhanced by the casino nearby. I mean, the area was quite deserted and suddenly there was this big casino in the middle of nowhere (but perhaps that's the whole idea. The casino was built there to attract people from the other side of the border to come and spend their money).

It took us roughly around 4 hours to reach Phnom Penh from Bavet. Throughout the ride, we could see that Cambodia had a very dry weather. Even the cows on the roadside looked skinny, so life must be hard down there. I remember crossing the river. The ferry was huge and vehicles as big as our coach could fit in there. Prior to that, some of us went to pee, only to be astounded by the fee: it was one USD for each person! We should have bought the Cambodia Riel earlier (it was fixed rate then, where one USD was equal to 4000 KHR) as they didn't give any change once we paid them in USD.

Setia and Endrico (peeping through the hole) on the ferry.

Phnom Penh in 2009 was a city liked no other. It was big, but barely had the charm of a capital city. The poverty that we saw throughout our journey to Phnom Penh certainly didn't help. It was so bad to the extent that it was depressing for those who weren't used to seeing it. I remember wondering how the bread and whatever that were sold on the roadside could be eaten, especially when the cyclone of dust kept engulfing them.

We stayed nearby the riverside (still a work in progress then), a walking distance to the Royal Palace. Once we checked in, we began searching for happy pizza, a delicacy that Endrico read about, something that was supposed to make us really happy. After asking around, we managed to get a tuktuk driver who seemed to know what we were talking about. Despite his confidence, we ended up at a wrong place. He brought us to some pizzeria that sold regular pizzas instead. Judging from the normal families who ate there, the pizzas certainly didn't have any special ingredients that made them unusually happy! We eventually got what we wanted later on. It was sold around the riverside, nearby our guesthouse. The happy pizza tasted bitter and it didn't seem to make us any happier.

Markus and the confident tuktuk driver on our quest for the happy pizza.

When the night came, I went to have a dinner with my girlfriend. Yani stayed at Le President Hotel as she was on business trip. We ordered salted egg crab there, the very first time we ever tried any dishes cooked with salted egg. It was brilliant, simply the best. Perhaps we should go back one day, eh? After that, I went back to meet the boys, but only Markus and Darto that were still awake. The three of us then went out to explore the night life. We had a beer or two at the Pussycat Club, then we explored the surroundings. What we saw was amusing. The Cambodians would gather in front of their houses to do either the slow dancing (two steps forward, one step backward) or rope skipping. They surely knew how to enjoy and cheer themselves up!

The next day, we made our way to Siem Reap, where the famous temple Angkor Wat is located. It was a six hours ride, with a scenery that had become all too familiar for us: dry, dusty and dirty view along the way, and poverty that was so rampant. We stopped for lunch, but the food presentation wasn't exactly tempting thanks to the flies that were aplenty.

Setia, shortly before we began our journey to the floating market via the river behind him. 

We visited the floating market not long after we reached Siem Reap. We took a boat cruising on a brown colored river which eventually led us to some sort of lake. While we were on our way, there were underage vendors that would leap to our boat with stunning accuracy and agility. I mean, the boat was moving fast and these kids just jumped onto it as if it! Anyway, the floating market was apparently a couple of boats that floated nearby each other. Our destination was a restaurant, but I don't recall what we ate there. The memory I had was the crocodiles that they kept on the boat. That was like the weirdest attraction ever! Totally unexpected! We went back to the mainland afterwards, just in time to visit the night market. If I remember correctly, we went to Pub Street afterwards, the lively and touristy area, but Endrico lost his way, so there wasn't any picture taken.

The next day, we went to Angkor Wat to see the sunrise. The temple was... colossal. I went to Borobudur before, but when I pictured it mentally, it was much smaller if compared with Angkor Wat. It took us half a day to walk around before we decided that we had seen enough of it. We went to the next one, the Bayon, the temple of faces and then ended the whole day activity with the visit to the tree temple of Ta Prohm (this was where the movie Tomb Raider was partly filmed). They were great, but it was Markus who made our day. In his valiant effort to pose for good photos, he crossed to a forbidden area where the landmines might still be active and was immediately shouted at by an angry officer, haha.

Posing in front of the Bayon temple.

Overall, Cambodia was alright, a real eye-opener. After what we saw there, I couldn't help thinking Indonesia was actually in a much better shape and we should be thankful instead of complaining endlessly. While it was meant to be a Vietnam-Cambodia trip, there wasn't any doubt that Siem Reap was the highlight of it, thanks to majestic Angkor Wat. From Siem Reap, we flew back to Ho Chi Minh City...


Tur ASEAN: Kamboja

Perjalanan kita ke Kamboja dimulai ketika bis yang kita tumpangi berangkat dari Ho Chi Minh City. Kita keluar dari Vietnam melalui Mộc Bài dan masuk Kamboja lewat Bavet, perbatasan yang cukup menarik untuk dikenang. Di tempat ini kita tidak antri seperti perbatasan lainnya, melainkan disuruh menunggu di toko mie. Kita disarankan untuk makan siang sambil menunggu paspor kita dicap. Toko ini juga menjual riel, mata uang Kamboja, dengan cara ditampilkan di etalase seperti lazimnya orang menjual suvenir. Uang kertasnya yang mirip seperti uang Monopoli membuatnya semakin terlihat seperti oleh-oleh. Yang lebih menakjubkan lagi, tidak jauh dari perbatasan, berdiri sebuah kasino. Ini aneh sekali, sebab Bavet adalah kota kecil yang gersang dan tidak ada apa-apa. Keberadaan kasino ini sangat mencengangkan, tapi mungkin ini disengaja untuk menarik perhatian orang dari Vietnam sehingga mereka datang dan berjudi. 

Dari kiri: Setia, Akiun dan Darto di toko mie di Bavet.

Dari Bavet, kita kembali menempuh perjalanan darat sekitar 4 jam lamanya untuk mencapai Phnom Penh. Sepanjang perjalanan, kita bisa melihat betapa keringnya cuaca di Kamboja. Bahkan sapi di jalan pun terlihat kurus, jadi hidup di sana pastilah susah. Di tengah jalan, kita menyeberangi sungai. Ferinya sangat lapang, bahkan kendaraan sebesar bis kita pun bisa muat di atasnya. Selagi menunggu bongkar-muat kendaraan, beberapa di antara kita pergi ke toilet dan kembali dengan wajah kaget: ongkosnya satu USD per orang! Seharusnya kita membeli riel tadi (waktu kita berada di Kamboja, patokan nilai tukarnya adalah satu USD sama dengan 4000 KHR) karena penjaga toilet tidak memberikan uang kembalian setelah kita bayar dengan USD!

Phnom Penh di tahun 2009 adalah pengalaman yang sungguh berbeda. Kotanya cukup besar, tapi tidak memiliki kharisma ibu kota. Kemiskinan yang kita lihat di sepanjang jalan menuju Phnom Penh jelas memperburuk kesan yang ada. Begitu buruknya kehidupan di sana sehingga terasa menyedihkan bagi yang tidak terbiasa melihatnya. Saya ingat bahwa saya sempat membayangkan, bagaimana caranya memakan roti atau apapun yang dijual di tepi jalan, sebab debu jalanan senantiasa menerpa dagangan mereka. 

Dari kiri: Markus, Hady, Darto, Akiun, Anthony, Setia dan Yani di depan penginapan kita.

Kita tinggal di kawasan tepi sungai yang sedang dibangun ketika itu. Lokasinya tidak jauh dari Royal Palace. Setelah menaruh barang di hotel, kita mulai mencari pizza gembira, sebuah menu lokal yang Endrico baca dan minati. Makanan ini konon bisa membuat kita gembira. Setelah bertanya sana-sini, kita berhasil mendapatkan pengemudi tuktuk yang sepertinya mengerti tentang apa yang kita mau. Kendati begitu, kita justru dibawa ke tempat seperti Pizza Hut. Ini jelas bukan pizza yang kita cari, sebab sejumlah pengunjung restoran di sana adalah keluarga yang membawa anak-anaknya. Mereka jelas tidak mencari pizza dengan bahan istimewa yang membuat mereka gembira! Singkat cerita, kita akhirnya menemukan apa yang kita cari. Tempatnya ternyata tidak jauh dari penginapan kita. Setelah dicicipi, pizza gembira ternyata agak pahit dan tidak membuat kita gembira

Ketika malam tiba, saya menjumpai teman wanita saya untuk bersantap malam. Yani tinggal di Le President Hotel karena dia di Kamboja dalam rangka bisnis. Kita memesan kepiting telur asin di sana, pertama kalinya saya mencoba makanan yang dimasak dengan telur asin. Rasanya enak sekali! Mungkin kita harus kembali ke sana lagi suatu hari nanti, haha. Setelah itu, saya kembali ke penginapan. Hanya Markus dan Darto yang belum tidur, jadi kita bertiga pun keluar untuk melihat kehidupan di Phnom Penh setelah malam. Kita minum bir Angkor di Pussycat Club, setelah itu kita berjalan mengelilingi sekitar penginapan. Orang Kamboja ternyata memiliki kebiasaan berkumpul di depan rumah untuk permainan lompat tali atau dansa pelan (dua langkah ke depan, satu langkah ke belakang). Mereka tahu cara sederhana untuk menikmati hidup! 

Hady mencoba cemilan laba-laba sewaktu kita beristirahat sejenak dalam perjalanan kita ke Siem Reap.

Di hari berikutnya, kita pun menuju Siem Reap, tempat kuil terkenal Angkor Wat berada. Perjalanan darat itu ditempuh dalam waktu enam jam dan pemandangannya juga kurang lebih sama dengan yang sudah dilihat sebelumnya: tempat yang gersang, berdebu dan kering serta kemiskinan yang parah. Kita sempat berhenti untuk makan siang, namun tempat makannya tidak mengundang selera karena banyaknya lalat yang beterbangan mengitari makanan. 

Kita juga mengunjungi pasar terapung tidak lama setelah kita tiba di Siem Reap. Kapal yang kita tumpangi menyusuri sungai berair coklat yang mengalir ke sebuah danau. Ketika kita berada dalam kapal yang melaju, ada beberapa bocah yang melompat ke kapal kita sambil menggendong dagangan mereka. Mereka luar biasa lincah dan terampil, bisa melompat begitu saja dan tidak kehilangan keseimbangan! Setelah tiba, yang mereka maksudkan dengan pasar terapung adalah beberapa kapal yang mengapung bersama. Saya tidak ingat apa yang kita makan di sana, tapi yang lebih membekas dalam ingatan saya adalah buaya-buaya yang berkeliaran di dalam kapal. Benar-benar aneh dan tidak terduga. Sesudah makan, kita kembali untuk mengunjungi pasar malam dan lanjut lagi ke Pub Street, tempat yang aktif dan dipadati oleh turis. Akan tetapi Endrico terpisah dari rombongan sehingga tidak ada foto yang sempat diambil selagi kita berada di sana.

Markus tersenyum ketika matahari terbit di Angkor Wat.

Di pagi berikutnya, kita pergi ke Angkor Wat untuk melihat matahari terbit. Kuil ini luar biasa kolosal dan lebih besar Borobudur. Kita membutuhkan setengah hari untuk berkeliling sampai kita merasa puas melihat-lihat. Perjalanan pun berlanjut ke Bayon, kuil beraneka wajah. Kuil terakhir dalam rangkaian acara kita adalah Ta Prohm, kuil yang muncul dalam adegan film Tomb Raider. Kuil-kuil ini mengagumkan, tetapi yang membuat kita lebih kagum lagi adalah Markus. Dalam upayanya untuk berpose, dia menyeberang ke daerah yang masih memiliki ranjau aktif. Alhasil, dia segera diteriaki oleh petugas yang marah, haha.

Secara keseluruhan, saya rasa Kamboja cukup menarik. Setelah apa yang kita lihat di sana, saya jadi berpikir bahwa Indonesia sebenarnya tidak terlalu buruk. Sebagai bagian dari perjalanan ke Vietnam dan Kamboja, tidak diragukan lagi bahwa Siem Reap adalah tujuan yang paling berkesan karena Angkor Wat yang megah. Dari Siem Reap, kita terbang kembali ke Ho Chi Minh City...

Di kuil Ta Prohm.