The Great Crossing

If you read a blog post called the Short Getaway before, you'd know that I actually preferred going to Batam than Johor Bahru. I liked the Indonesian food there and I could also grab a few packs of Indomie on my way back. But then there was an advertisement of Hard Rock Cafe Puteri Harbour on my Facebook feed, probably about six months ago. What I saw lingered and I always thought of visiting Johor again one day. 

That day came rather unexpectedly. I was thrilled by the trip to Bali in April, my first since we entered the post-COVID era. The very idea of being able to travel again was extremely liberating! It was like rediscovering the long lost freedom. I wanted to do it again and I had just one destination in mind: JB. So I asked around, downloaded My Sejahtera (which wasn't used throughout the trip), uploaded my vaccine certificate and I realized that I was basically good to go.

I had heard of stories about people walking to JB before. It was like the great crossing, because the norm was to go there by vehicles, not on foot. If the crowd ever happened to walk from Singapore to Johor Bahru, more often than not it'd be on the news and it wasn't a very flattering one. But the crossing was doable and, most importantly, not illegal. When I observed the map, the distance seemed like something that I could cover as part of Strava time. So the next time I did my morning walk on Saturday, I brought along my passport as well.

Morning in Woodlands. 

I found myself in Woodlands that morning. After two kilometers, I could really feel that the weather was hotter and more humid than usual, so it was a good thing to enter Woodlands Checkpoints and cool down for a while, haha. The immigration itself was as efficient as ever and it didn't take a long time to do the clearance. I queued and walked out from the building within 30 minutes.

Then began the journey into the unknown. I asked the officer at the bus platform whether I could really walk to JB. He looked at me and said I could do that, but perhaps it was not a good idea as the sun was scorching. I thanked him and walked towards the direction he pointed earlier. I descended the staircase, walked through the tunnel and eventually reached the bridge.

Bridge to Johor Bahru.

There were a lot of cars and motorbikes stuck in the jam, but there was nobody else walking in front of me. It was very surreal and there was this sense of uncertainty that perhaps I had done something wrong. Half way through, there was this tiny rest area and an uncle sitting there seemed to look startled when he saw me. He shifted the bike a bit to let me continue walking.

The surprise came at the end of the bridge. There was this forbidden sign for the pedestrians on the pavement. I was like, "is it for real? If yes, shouldn't this be placed at the start of the bridge?" I didn't wear glasses that day, so I squinted my eyes to see as far as I could. Turned out that there was someone else walking at the side of the car lane. The guy was a precedence I needed, so I just followed what he did, haha. 

Strava time!

The motorbike lane was on the left whereas car lane was in the middle, so I crossed over. There I was, walking as the cars barely moved. I saw the another lane meant for buses branching out to the right, but I continued walking. Then the Malaysian officer saw and approached me. He informed me that this entry was for cars only, so I had to walk back a bit and entered from the bus lane. When I did that, I saw buses stopping and passengers alighting to walk. They should have done that when I passed by the first time!

The queue at Sultan Iskandar Building was all right. It wasn't that long and quite efficient, too, even though I was puzzled by the fact that I didn't need to do fingers scan while the guy next to me was doing that. Right after that, I was in JB again, my first time since I went there with my friend Wawa to visit a friend's dad back in 2017. It was quite early still, so I walked around to look for postcard and post office. After that I called Grab (it required a face scan in Malaysia) and headed to Hard Rock Cafe.

In Puteri Harbour.

Puteri Harbour was about 20 minutes drive from Johor Bahru and one had to pass by a neighborhood called Perling to reach there. Unlike JB that retained the old town look-and-feel in certain parts of the city, Puteri Harbour was newly built and filled with high-rise buildings. I dropped off at some condo nearby Hard Rock Cafe and, since I had some time before its opening hours, I had char kway at the restaurant nearby. Not bad, tasted like carrot cake, probably because it was carrot cake. I don't know, just guessing, haha.

I didn't know if I was too early or what, but the whole place was awfully quiet. Not sure if this Hard Rock Cafe would last. But at least I got the t-shirt now, haha. I went back to the city after that and queued at Hiap Joo bakery before I returned to Singapore. As I told the Grab driver, "no, I don't like banana cakes, but when the wife asks for it, I'll do exactly that. No questions asked!"

The queue at Hiap Joo bakery.

Jalan Pagi Lintas Negara

Jika anda pernah membaca tulisan saya yang berjudul Liburan Singkat, anda pasti tahu bahwa saya lebih menyukai Batam daripada Johor Bahru. Saya suka selera nusantara di Batam dan saya pun bisa membeli beberapa bungkus Indomie sebelum kembali ke Singapura. Namun sempat saya lihat iklan Hard Rock Cafe Puteri Harbour di Facebook saya, kira-kira enam bulan silam. Apa yang saya lihat ini selalu terbayang dan saya jadi berpikir untuk ke Johor lagi satu hari nanti.

Hari itu ternyata tiba begitu saja. Saya baru kembali dari liburan ke Bali, perjalanan saya yang pertama sejak kita keluar dari masa COVID. Rasanya bagaikan lepas dari belenggu dan menemukan lagi kebebasan yang telah lama hilang. Saya ingin lekas bertualang lagi dan saya memiliki satu tujuan yang selalu terngiang di benak saya: JB. Jadi saya pun bertanya sana-sini dalam berbagai percakapan, mengunduh aplikasi My Sejahtera (yang sama sekali tidak dipakai selama di JB), mengunggah sertifikat vaksin dan akhirnya saya pun siap untuk berangkat. 

Saya pernah mendengar cerita tentang mereka yang berjalan kaki memasuki JB. Biasanya orang ke sana menggunakan kendaraan, jadi berjalan kaki itu tidak lazim. Jika sampai ada orang beramai-ramai menyeberang ke JB, biasanya masuk berita dan tidak bagus beritanya. Akan tetapi berjalan kaki ke JB itu bisa dilakukan dan tidaklah ilegal. Tatkala saya mengamati peta, jaraknya terlihat seperti apa yang biasa saya tempuh saat Strava. Lantas saya pun membawa paspor di kala saya jalan pagi di hari Sabtu.

Pagi di Woodlands. 

Pagi itu saya berada di Woodlands. Setelah dua kilometer, saya bisa merasakan bahwa cuacanya memang lebih panas dan lembab dari biasanya. Oleh karena itu, senang rasanya berada di Woodlands Checkpoints dan menyejukkan diri sejenak di ruangan ber-AC, haha. Imigrasi Singapura efisien seperti biasa dan tidak butuh waktu lama prosesnya. Saya antri dan keluar dari gedung dalam tempo kurang dari 30 menit. 

Kemudian mulailah perjalanan yang sama sekali baru bagi saya. Saya hampiri petugas yang berada di tempat bis dan bertanya padanya, apakah benar saya bisa berjalan kaki ke JB. Dia memandang saya sejenak dan berkata bahwa saya bisa, cuma sedang panas cuacanya sekarang. Saya lantas menuju ke arah yang dia tunjuk, menuruni tangga yang melingkar ke bawah, lalu berjalan melewati terowongan dan tiba di jembatan. 

Jembatan ke Johor Bahru.

Di samping kanan saya terlihat banyak mobil dan motor yang terjebak macet, namun tidak terlihat seorang pun berjalan kaki di depan saya. Ada perasaan tidak pasti sewaktu saya meneruskan perjalanan, sebab suasana di sekeliling saya sungguh janggal. Setengah jalan menyusuri jembatan, ada tempat peristirahatan dan seorang pria berumur yang duduk di sana tampak kaget saat melihat saya. Dia lantas memindahkan motornya supaya saya bisa terus berjalan. 

Satu hal yang mengejutkan terjadi di ujung jembatan. Di trotoar terlihat rambu larangan bagi pejalan kaki. Saya tercengang. Ini sungguhan? Kalau rambu ini serius, kenapa tidak ditaruh di depan jembatan, sebelum orang mulai berjalan? Saya tidak mengenakan kacamata di pagi itu, jadi saya memicingkan mata dan melihat sejauh mungkin. Ternyata ada yang berjalan di lajur mobil. Pria ini adalah contoh yang saya butuhkan, jadi saya tinggal mengikutinya, haha. 

Strava time!

Lajur motor ada di sebelah kiri, sedangkan lajur mobil ada di tengah, jadi saya harus menyeberang. Saya lantas berjalan menanjak di bahu jalan sementara mobil-mobil berjejer dalam macet. Setelah beberapa lama, saya melihat belokan lain khusus bis yang mengarah ke sebelah kanan, namun saya terus lanjut di lajur semula. Ketika saya hampir tiba, seorang petugas di perbatasan Malaysia datang menghampiri dan memberitahukan bahwa pejalan kaki harus lewat lajur bis. Akhirnya saya berbalik dan kini terlihat bis yang berhenti serta para penumpang yang turun untuk berjalan. Saya jadi geli dan bergumam dalam hati, ke mana saja mereka ketika saya lewat barusan. 

Antrian di Gedung Sultan Iskandar tidak begitu panjang sehingga saya tidak menunggu lama saat cap paspor. Yang agak membuat saya bingung itu, kenapa orang di sebelah saya disuruh memindai sidik jari sementara saya tidak perlu. Setelah beres, saya akhirnya di JB lagi, kali pertama setelah terakhir ke sana bersama Wawa dalam rangka mengunjungi ayah teman di tahun 2017. Karena hari masih pagi, saya mondar-mandir mencari kartu pos dan kantor pos. Setelah itu saya memanggil Grab (dan ada fitur wajib memindai raut wajah di Malaysia), lalu menuju Hard Rock Cafe.

Di Puteri Harbour.

Puteri Harbour bisa dicapai dengan mobil dalam waktu 20 menit dari Johor Bahru. Saya melewati kawasan bernama Perling saat menuju ke sana. Berbeda dengan JB yang masih memiliki bangunan-bangunan lama di beberapa sudut kota, Puteri Harbour tampak baru dan penuh dengan gedung-gedung tinggi. Saya diturunkan oleh Grab di depan sebuah kondominium. Karena masih ada waktu setengah jam sebelum Hard Rock Cafe buka, saya mencicipi masakan bernama char kway di restoran terdekat. Rasanya seperti kue wortel Singapura atau makanan yang disebut ko kue di Pontianak. 

Saya tidak tahu apakah saya datang terlalu awal atau apa, tapi kawasan itu sangat sepi. Saya jadi ragu kalau Hard Rock Cafe ini akan bertahan lama, tapi minimal saya sudah punya kausnya sekarang, haha. Sesudah itu, saya kembali ke kota dan antri di toko kue Hiap Joo sebelum pulang ke Singapura. Seperti yang saya katakan kepada supir Grab, "saya tidak suka kue pisang, tapi kalau istri minta, saya belikan. Pokoknya tidak pake tanya!" 

Antrian di toko kue Hiap Joo.